I hit the wrong post 'quote'. I meant that for the OP. However, any idea if that includes the mounting hardware too? I can't really tell from my eBay search if the hardware has a separate part number or is included with the front plate bracket.Mine came with all items for install from my dealer, GMPARTSNOW has listings for rivets etc Maybe my dealer 'worked' with me and GM list price is in the 30 dollar range If you do purchase I would place the holder on the vehicle with double stick tape first before any holes are drilled.

Drill out the rivets which is easy to do and then adjust the holes and rivet back in place. If you are not comfortable or have the tools to do this then take it back to the dealer and tell them that you you like them to fix their mistake.Taking our '13 I4 Nox back in a week to have them reinstall the crooked front license plate bracket. With the indents on the bracket that line up perfectly with the bumper it's difficult to comprehend how they could have installed it crooked. Also going to have them verify what I assume is a gasoline odor on the crankcase dipstick.

Hey All, I have read and searched on removing the front license plate bracket. However, my bracket does not have rivets but rather these black.

Only 6 months since we bought it, now with about 7,500 miles or so. Hope I'm mistaken but the dipstick indicates an over-filled crankcase. And the dealer did perform the last oil change. Taking our '13 I4 Nox back in a week to have them reinstall the crooked front license plate bracket. With the indents on the bracket that line up perfectly with the bumper it's difficult to comprehend how they could have installed it crooked. Also going to have them verify what I assume is a gasoline odor on the crankcase dipstick. Only 6 months since we bought it, now with about 7,500 miles or so.

Hope I'm mistaken but the dipstick indicates an over-filled crankcase. And the dealer did perform the last oil change. You may want to do some homework before going to the dealer by reading up on this forum about faulty fuel pumps. Sounds like you may have one. Well It came out pretty good. I ended up not going with rivets since the biggest ones I could find in stainless and alum were to small for the holes on the bracket and would fall right through.

This local boat shop had some large nice polished ones but they were pricey plus I needed to buy a expensive bigger rivet gun. I all ready have too much time invested and gas money so figured I just go basic to not complicate things and get some stainless steel screws. Maybe my method is not the correct way, but it works and I am happy with the install. If others want to pay the dealer or buy the factory rivets more power to you. Here is what I used. -Clear Rtv silicon -Phillips screwdriver -4 #12 1inch stainless steel screws (home depot) $2.50 -4 1/4' stainless steel washers (home depot) $1.18 So I aligned the bracket up straight and used a punch to mark my holes.

I used a 7/32 drill bit and drilled only about an 1inch deep. It's only black Styrofoam under the painted plastic bumper. So watch out it goes in like butter.

Now you don't have to do this next part and may sound weird, but since I will more likely never see this part of the vehicle again it did not matter to me. I placed Clear Rtv silicon adhesive inside the holes so when the screws go in it will seal a little better, and plus the front of the vehicle is gonna get hit with grim and salt so hopefully it will help seal. It does not hurt the paint and if you get excess residue anywhere it peels off when dry and cleans easy. I then aligned the plate bracket up and screwed in the top bolts first using a stainless steel washer and also placing some silicon on the screw. The sealant will also help with any vibration and will ensure the screws always stay in place. Finished off with the lower 2 screws.

Your own opinions to lease Berklee Basic Guitar - Phase 1: Guitar Technique - various other viewers will be able to determine of a book. Berklee basic guitar phase 1 pdf download free full.